Just when you think you know how 19th Century Australians cooked their pasta, along comes a recipe that changes everything.
Before we go on, however, you have to know there was no such thing as pasta in the 1800s – it was called macaroni. And it was most commonly cooked in a sweet pudding , much like a rice pudding, in a bake of some sort, like macaroni cheese, or as an accompaniment or garnish to different meats (ox tongue garnished with macaroni anyone?).
There were, of course, exceptions, mostly revolting-sounding ones which involved brown gravy and batter, but none are as exceptional and out of place as the recipe below:
Maccaroni Dressed with Oil.
Take two cloves of garlic, slice them very finely crosswise, and set them to boil in a gill of fine olive oil, adding during the process two or three anchovies, well washed and boned, and cut in small pieces, and a dozen or more olives, cut in two and stoned. When the slices of garlic assume a golden color, pour the whole over 1/2lb of boiled string maccaroni (Vermicelli or Spaghetti) well drained; mix well, and serve.
It comes from Australian Town and Country Journal in 1890 and, culinarily for its time, it’s a freak.
Not only does it contain garlic and olive oil – both at least a good seventy years away from real acceptance in the mainstream Australian pantry; it doesn’t contain any kind of protein – unless you count anchovies – which I don’t; and it mentions spaghetti – which, while not unheard of in this period, is rare. The recipe is not prefaced with it being Italian, or foreign or unusual in anyway. It’s just a normal recipe for normal housewives, unlike any others before it, and a good way ahead of any others that follow it.
Unfortunately, there’s no author given for the recipe and that is a real shame, because they should be congratulated for their foresight… of course, this could mean the recipe was plagiarised, in which case I take the congratulations back…
Bibliography
“Maccaroni Dressed with Oil,” Australian Town and Country Journal, 26 April 1890, 34.
did you check if there was an italian community in the town at that time. sounds like someone had just arrived from italy although it sounds like a very salty dressing 🙂
Australian Town and Country was published in Sydney – the 1881 census counted just 521 Italians in all of NSW – so not really a community but I think you’re right in that someone must’ve come from Italy. As for the saltiness, I guess it would make them want to drink – which is what Australians were def known to like doing at that time (and still now i guess!)